I'm woken by the sound of two Chucaos outside my window noisily searching the long grass for a morning meal.  Their piercing call sounds exactly like their name and after 20 minutes even the remnants of cheap Chilean wine from the night before can't put me back to sleep.  We arrived yesterday from Puerto Montt and after a long day of single engine flights and bus rides spent the night in a hostel in Palena just a few miles from the border with Argentina.




It's here where we'll start our ten day paddle across Chile on the Palena River crossing the remote southern region XI, known as Aysen. It may be our last chance to see the free flowing Palena in all her glory. Like so many other wild rivers of Patagonia, the Palena may soon find herself choked by one of many hydroelectric projects slated for this region, altering the landscape, environment and culture for generations.

I notice Simone (pronounced SEE-mone) has chosen to sleep in as his snoring easily penetrates the thin walls of our hostel.  Simone is our 23 year old "guide in training" from Quebec, who has joined us on our 10 day paddle across Chile.  Simone's light complexion and red spotty beard reminds me of an early nineteenth century French Canadian Voyageur.  I silently wonder if he'll live up to the comparison.


I eventually have to give in to the cries of my own stomach, as they begin to rival those of the Chucaos, and make my way downstairs in search of breakfast.  I find Simone sitting at the kitchen table and ask him, "Simone....weren't you supposed to help Jorge get the rafts ready this morning?"  Looking down as if he had just been scolded, he said, "Yes, but you made me drink that wine last night and I didn't wake up in time, Jorge is not going to be happy." 

Jorge Vasquez is our lead guide with Puerto Varas based outfitter Ko Kayak. Jorge, while soft spoken is all Patagonian with his dark features and muscular shoulders from years of guiding in Chile and Costa Rica. Jorge is well known along the Palena River and with his family maintains a modest cabin along its banks. "I've paddled and fished this river my whole life, to me it's the best part of Patagonia, but if these dams come to the area I'm not sure what it will mean for the Palena," he says. It's becoming obvious that he's also questioning the prospect of having to break in an intern on our trip. "Is this Simone's first trip as a guide", I ask. Jorge silently nods with a long exhale. "yes and unless he improves there will be no more wine or pico sour for the French Canadian."



The Palena, while not as well known as its neighbors, the Futaleufu or Rio Baker is one of the regions true jewels with its deep, glacially silted turquoise waters teaming with wild trout.  It begins its 124 mile decent to the Pacific Ocean from the eastern side of the Andes at Lake General Paz. The Palena then winds its way through Chile, evolving as it dissects towns such as Palena and La Junta, eventually opening up to the Pacific at Raul Marin Balmaceda. 

After some bread, jam and cheese it's time to make our way down to the banks of the Palena but not before our guests introduce us to Mate Tea (pronounced Ma-tae). Yerba Mate is a slightly bitter tea that provides the same stimulation as a cup of coffee. Mate is very much a social drink in southern South America and drank out of a hollowed gourd with a filtered straw. I'm the first to feel its affects and soon we're all raring to put that first paddle in the water and start our journey across Patagonia.

I first heard of this trip through Kim McCluskey of World Wide Paddling Adventures.  Kim had made this trip a year earlier and talked non-stop about Patagonia's wild rivers, volcanoes and how pristine this region had remained. Kim couldn't make the trip this year but sends Dominic Puglielli.  Domo, as he prefers to be called, is every bit the outdoorsman with a full beard and knowledge of the outdoors that exceeds his 26 years. Domo is joined by his girlfriend Jessica who herself is no stranger to the outdoors.  Jessica is a Creative Program Director for Wild Within, a company out of Ely, MN that customizes wilderness trips into the Boundary Waters of Northern Minnesota.  Our final member, Anthony Yapchanyk, is an adventure racer from Tampa, Florida. Jessica lets out the first, yea-hah, as we push off from the shoreline and Anthony gets us all laughing with his best Borat impersonation, "it's very niiice". 





It's this "very nice" wilderness and river that now finds itself in the middle of a raging debate over a series of dams proposed for the unspoiled Aysen Region.  Over the past several decades Patagonia's wild rivers have found themselves under constant attack. Under Augusto Pinochet, Chile awarded the water rights to 90% of Patagonia's major rivers to the then state controlled Endesa Power Company.  Endesa, now Spanish owned plans to exercise their bestowed rights between 2012 and 2018 and rivers such as Rio Baker, Pascua, Puelo, Futaleufu and Palena are likely on the short list of rivers being considered for a multi-dam project. 

The speed in which these projects are proceeding is due to the fact that Chile lacks a domestic energy source, importing more than 90% of its petroleum, gas and coal.  "It is a crime against Chile not to use Aysen's hydroelectric resources," says Jorge Rodriguez Grossi, former minister of economy. 

Yet while the forces to gain greater independence over its energy needs mounts, there is a swelling voice of opposition.  "This is not the kind of development we want here at the end of the world," says Patricio Segura, a leader of the Citizens' Coalition for Aysen.  "There is no need to transform Patagonia into another Santiago."  Others argue that these dams would very likely jeopardize economic development since it's these resources and tourism that have repeatedly been singled out as the key to economic growth in the region. "As a businessman, I am convinced we have something valuable in Patagonia in our flora, fauna, and people," said Victor Hugo Puchi, a native Aysenian and chairman of Aquachile, the country's largest salmon farming company.  "After years of isolation, it would be terribly unjust for the region to be threatened by an act of aggression against the very activities the region has chosen for its development." 

Jorge is a perfect example of a local guide who has brought the economic advantages of eco-tourism down to the local level by incorporating the local ranchers and their families into our experience. It's this cultural component that starts to really stand out on day two as we pull up to a team of huge oxen attached to a cart accompanied by a Huasos, or Chilean cowboy.  Their full wool chaps and beret make them a noticeable and unique part of the Patagonian landscape.  I



It's these oxen and Huasos who will be transporting our gear to a nearby ranch owned by Roberto Salazar.   Roberto is a bit of a celebrity in the valley and known for his extraordinary knowledge of the surrounding mountains and their trails.  This region is known for trekking, something that Anthony doesn't let us forget.  "I hope we have some time for some hiking", he says at least once a day.  "Well, tomorrow we're horseback riding to one of the glaciers, I'm sure the horses wouldn't mind if you, how do you say, hoofed-it", Simone says with a smirk.


The next morning we wake up to the sound of horses being lead past out tents.  They're good sized and they prove to know the trails as we encounter several fallen trees and have to bush-whack our way around them.  We eventually make our way to the river crossing and come to find it's too high for the horses to traverse so we settle for seeing the glacier from a distance. 


The glaciers of Patagonia cover 90,000 square kilometers and feed most of Patagonia's rivers. The glacier before us which is small in Patagonian standards, roles over the mountain landscape like a creeping wave of ice and snow and hangs motionless while giving you the impression that it'll come crashing down the mountain at any moment.  Experiencing one of these glaciers calving has unfortunately become all too common over the past decade and the high river may be a direct result of the speed in which these glaciers are melting. 

We return to Roberto's early, which allows me time to grab my fly rod and head down to the river.  Trout were introduced to this region in the late nineteenth century and have thrived under near perfect conditions. Patagonia is known for its world-class fishing and it's obvious why.  The trout thrive on plentiful crayfish, puye minnows and pancora. I was told by a friend to fish down stream with streamers on a sinking tip line and you'll coax the large fish out of the holes. But so far it's been Domo who has had the most luck with a retractable pole and a simple #1 mepps. "I thought Patagonia was for fly fisherman," I asked Jorge.  "I think it might have more to do with the fisherman than the bait," he replied.  I use to like you Jorge.





To this point we've been catching some nice Rainbow and Brown Trout and we've all been asking Jorge when we'll fry some up for dinner. His answer is always the same, "Why have fish when there's carne."  If there is one thing above everything else that keeps the trout healthy and strong it's that Chileans love their beef.  The mention of carne causes Jorge's eyes to light up in anticipation of a beef or lamb barbecue.  I soon understand the cause of Jorge's fixation as the wind brings the wafting fragrance of fresh beef and lamb grilling over an open flame.  Roberto and his two sons have been managing the flames all afternoon and it's nearly ready. 

The meat literally falls off the bone and after having our fill of fresh beef, lamb and Chilean pinot noir, Roberto's oldest son is convinced, after a short debate, to bring out his guitar for some after dinner entertainment. Expecting to hear a Chilean folk song he instead breaks into a pretty good rendition of Pink Floyd's, Wish You Were Here.  It seems a fitting end to another great day.  
 
The debate over Patagonia's water resources has created, until recently, unthinkable alliances. Aquachile, who has traditionally been at odds with environmental groups now finds itself joining ranks with environmental and citizens' groups such as Aysen Reserva de Vida (Aysen Life Reserve), Ecosistemas, Geoaustral, Futafriends, Los Defensores del Espíritu de la Patagonia (The Defenders of the Spirit of Patagonia) and the Peter Hartmann run group, Committee for the Defense of Flora and Fauna, or CODEFF.  Collectively, these groups have launched campaigns to keep the rivers of Patagonia wild, focusing on the fact that local economies benefit more from tourism and fishing. 


The issue has even gained international attention and the resources of arguably the most successful outdoor industry businessman, Yvon Chouinard the founder of the outdoor clothing company Patagonia. Chouinard's company has raised money and awareness by organizing e-mail campaigns to Chilean leaders, dedicating large sections of their popular catalog and website to highlighting the topic and sponsoring the acclaimed documentary 180 Degrees South. Likewise, The North Face founder Doug Tompkins and his wife Kris, former CEO of Patagonia, have dedicated themselves to protecting and conserving the unspoiled lands of Patagonia. The Tompkins established The Conservation Land Trust and Conservacion Patagonica and have so far conserved over 2 million acres in the region. %u2028

Over the next few days we weave our way past dozens of snow capped peaks, glaciers, small class rapids and in spots where the river smoothes out, we haul in and then release one trout after another.  We eventually make our way to the town of La Junta where we switch from our rafts to sea kayaks.  I've been waiting for this moment because while I thoroughly enjoy rafting, I feel most at home in a kayak.  My website www.kayaktion.com is dedicated to paddlers and places like the Palena River and I smile as I feel the river glide smoothly beneath me under my own power. 


The river is starting to change, it's becoming wider with more exposed sand beaches and when the wind is just right the distant smell of salt can be detected.   Our next night is spent on one of these beaches just under the massive, snow capped Volcano of Melimoyu and conveniently across from three amazing hot springs.  We quickly set up camp, grab the remaining Crystal Beer and head over to the hot springs.  It amazes me how anyone found these hot springs as we trudge through at least 100 yards of thick forest on what may or may not be a trail.




After following the sound of Simone practicing his Puma call, we eventually find the hot springs, "Nature was nice enough to give us three options, hot, hotter and en Fuego", I say as I slide into the hottest pool.  After several days of paddling these hot springs are appreciated and toasted, several times.  Domo sums it up best, "To the hot springs, to Patagonia". 

The next morning I wake up to what sounds like thunder but as I unzip my tent the sun greets me in a perfectly blue sky.  Jorge is looking to the south and sees me exiting my tent.  "Do you hear that", he says.  "Yes is there a storm approaching?" I ask.  "No it's the volcano, not Melimoyu, but another one about 100 km to the south", he adds.   This region of Patagonia has over 29 Holocene Volcanoes and Chile has around 112 known volcanoes.  We stand motionless and not only listen to this giant but feel it as it groans and falls just short of shaking the entire valley. We break camp and with one eye to the south start the longest paddle of the trip, an eight hour journey into Raul Marin Balmaceda.   

I can't help but think that with all the controversy over the damming of these great rivers, maybe Chile's energy solution lies literally right under its feet.  Hydroelectric opponents argue that other renewable energy sources, such as geothermal are cheaper, less intrusive, more efficient and not subject to foreign control.  Countries with similarly high concentrations of volcanoes such as Iceland have been extremely effective in harnessing the power of the earth's geothermal energy.  Today Iceland has five geothermal power plants producing around 26% of the country's electricity and 87% of its heating and hot water requirements.  Geothermal power plants likewise have shown they can be engineered to blend into the local environment.  The geothermal power plant in Mammoth Lakes, California was designed in a way that makes it virtually unnoticeable to the casual observer. According to the Center for Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy (CEERT), geothermal energy also benefits local communities economically with increased tax revenues and jobs. "Because of the malign energy model we have, there has been zero development of alternative energy sources," says Juan Pablo Orrego, the director of Eco-Sistemas. "It would not be hard, and would be much to our benefit as a nation, to diversify both sources and supplies of energy." 


The Palena continues to widen now with every stroke and each gust of wind brings the smell and taste of salt as we draw closer and closer to the small fishing village of Raul Marin Balmaceda. Today we're lucky, two adult sea lions tag along as we paddle around the bay and their large snouts blow spray out with a loud huff.  They eventually either get bored with our attempts to take a photo or they find something tasty that takes priority over their curiosity.  This makes sense since it's the famous Humboldt Current that flows north from Antarctica along the Chilean cost and supplies approximately 20% of the world's fish catch including Sardines, Anchovies and Jack Mackerel. The water teams with life as we continue seeing several pods of small Dolphin, Black Skimmers and Cormorants diving and resurfacing throughout the bay.   


It's in Raul Marin Balmaceda where our journey nears its end and we have to say goodbye to Simone, a new friend who has grown to not only be a source of humor on our long days of paddling but an accomplished river guide.  "I wasn't sure about that crazy Frenchman early on," says Anthony, "but he surprised me and turned out to be a pretty good guide."  As his boat departs he can't help but give us another verse from the French folksong "Alouette" that he's been trying to teach us over the last week.   The song describes taking each part of a wild game bird until there is nothing left.   

Maybe the theme of this simple French folksong is something Chile needs to consider.  What's really at stake in this battle is not the interests of a single company or region but the future of Chile, the Asyen culture and one of the last wild places left untouched by man. "In the documentary 180 Degrees South Doug Tompkins says, "if you walk up the edge of a cliff and take one step forward or turn around and then take one step forward, which is progress."  Hopefully, it will be Chile who will surprise us by taking one step forward to protect their Patagonia.

To learn more about this issue visit
The conservation Land Trust
http://www.theconservationlandtrust.org/eng/mision_introduccion.htm

Conservacion Patagonia
http://www.conservacionpatagonica.org/